Expedition Tours – Pakistan Guided Tours

Nanga Parbat Peak (2186m) Expedition

The western most peak of Himalaya is Nanga Parbat (8126m), the 9th highest mountain in the world ranking and second in Pakistan. From the arid Indus the view of its massive vast snowy face is glorious spectacle. Apart from the highest 8126mNanga Parbat in the massif, there several other prominent peak such as Raikot, Chongra, Mazino, Buldar, Ganato and Jillipur.

Nanga Parbat has three main faces known as Rupal, Diamer and Raikot, which are totally different in appearance and their route start from different valleys. Rupal face is in Astore region of Diamer and known as highest rock face of 4570m. The diamer face is known for its most direct route and famous among alpinists. The Raikot face at the head of Fair Meadows, one of the most beautiful place on earth, has the longest route from base to peak.

Though the approach route to the base camps of Nanga Parbat is easy and scenic but the climb is treacherous and technical. Unstable glaciers, frequent storms and avalanches have proved hazardous. Due to the highest rate of accidents and number of causalities while making early attempts on this peak, the peak got the name of “Killer Mountain” and was considered as un-climbed for long period. This idea was also supported by the local legends and fairies guarding the mountain. Unfortunately the name of Killer Mountain was associated with Nanga Parbat but in fact it is one of the most spectacular peaks in the world, popular among climbers and trekkers alike.

At was in 1856 when Adolf Schlagintweit at the foot of Nanga Parbat and sent his reports with sketches and Nanga Parbat came into lime light in the Europe. Later on in 1892, W. Martin Conway visited the Nanga Parbat region during his Karakorum Expedition and announced that Raikot Face is supposedly the best possible to make a summit bid. In 1895 a British mountaineer Albert Fredrick Mummery and his Gorkha porter Raghobir started climbing from Rupal side and disappeared without any trace. In 1910, the mountain writer and publisher Walter Schkidkunz advised the Nanga Parbat is best attempted from Raikot valley. In 1934, German Himalayan Expedition led by Willie Merkl reached up to a height of 7850m. Merkl along three climbers and sherpas perished in a blizzard. Karlo Wien was the next victim of Nanga Parbat in 1937. He died in an avalanche with 7 other climbers and 9 porters. In 1938 Paul Bauer made a concrete attempt with a good climbing team but reached up to 7300m only. In 1939, a reconnaissance expedition led by Peter Aufschnaiter made two attempts on Diamer Face but bound to gain the maximum height of just 6000m. In 1950, a British Expedition made the first winter reconnaissance of the Nanga Parbat but again the unfortunate. J, Thomley and W. Carce perished while climbing.

In initial reconnaissance, route finding and climbing attempts, the Germans made a rich contribution and Nanga Parbat got the name of German mountain (a few other names associated to this peak are sleeping Beauty, Killer Mountain and Naked Mountain etc). In 1953, a German – Austrian expedition was initiated by Dr. Karl Maria Heligkoffer (stepbrother to Willy Markl who died on Nanga Parbat in 1934). The expedition faced several problems but finally with the support of a good climbing team, made an attempt.

The climbing started smoothly and camps were established, but due to deteriorated weather spell, Herligkoffer ordered all the climbers to come down from mountain to base camp. Bhul, Kampter, Frauenbergar and the cameraman Erlt were still in higher camps. They have refused the retreat order on July 1st, the weather turned better and on July 2nd, Bhul and Kempter established camp V at 6900m. On July 3rd at 1:00am Bhul left the camp heading upwards while Kempter followed him at 5:00am the sun rose above the horizon and Bhul reached the sliver saddle. The three km long plateau taxed Bhul’s strength. At the end of the plateau, Bhul had some tea and left his pack behind to move easily. Kempter also have reached the plateau but realized that Bhul is far away so he returned to the camp.

Bhul reached at 7800m, and had the technical most difficult section of the whole climb ahead of him and last 300m didn’t look promising. He started the climbing rocks and reached the shoulder, then at 700pm he stood on the summit. It was dead claim and perfectly clear, the chapter Nanga Parbat was finished for the lonely man on the top. He planted his ice-axes with Pakistani and Tyroli flags attached to it and took a few pictures. Night was falling fast as he started to descend. At tiny ledge above 8000m, he had an emergency bivouac and stood there for the whole night in exposure. At dawn he started descending and again after hazardous full day of waling reached back to the camp.

The history was made and it is truly said that if anyone at that time could manage such a climb, it was Hermann Bhul. Nanga Parbat was next climbed by Reinhold Messner from Rupal Side. The expedition was again led by Herligkoffer. Later on Messner climbed the mountain from Diamer face as well, making a remarkable and historical solo climb. A team of Pakistani climbers also scaled the mountain in 1989 where Sher Khan, Ata and other climbers succeeded to reach the summit.

ITINERARY

Day 01 – 03: Islamabad/Rawalpindi
Day 04: Rawalpindi – Chilas
Day 05-06: Chilas – Zangot
Day 07: Zangot –Nanga Parbat BC
Days 08-42: CLIMBING: Days reserved for climbing.
Day 43: Nanga Parbat BC – Zangot
Day 44: Zangot – Chilas
Day 45: Chilas –Islamabad
Day 46: De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism
Day 47: Rest/Relax Day
Day 48: Fly Back Q.

Trichmir Peak (7708m) Expedition

Chitral is guarded by Tirichmir (7,708m) “the only highest peak in hindukush range. The traditional route to the peak passes through Chitral – Reshun – Kuragh – Khosht – Drassan – Zani pass – Shagram and Shaikh Naik. After a two-hour jeep drive on Chitral-Mastuj road one has to take a direct route from Perpish to Barum village and then through the glacier of the same name (Barum) to the peak. This route is, however, recommended for those who have already acclimatized themselves with high-altitude-climbing; otherwise there is a great danger of high altitude sickness.

It was climbed for the first time in 1950 by a Norwegian expedition which was lead by Arne Naess. The other members of the expedition included P. Kvern berg and H. Berg. It was in 1982 that a German by the name of Fritz Stammberger tried to climb, all alone, a subsidiary peak of Tirich Mir(7,701 m/25,267ft). He could go up to (6,096/20,000ft) when he was hit by an avalanche and sustained minor head and face injuries. Upon returning to base camp he met an American expedition of Knauth, Peter Newell and Dr. Bill Bartlett from whom he received medical treatment.

Tirich Mir (E):- It has a height of 7,692m/25,236ft and was climbed in 1964 by a Norwegian expedition which was again led by Arne Naess, who had headed the successful 1950 Tirich Mir (Main) expedition. Two members, R. Hoibakk and A. Opdal, reached top of Tirich Mir (E). Tirich Mir (West II):- It is about 7,500m/24,607ft high, and was climbed in 1974 by Beppe Re and Guido Machetto of an Italian expedition. After establishing base camp, the party set up two additional camps. In order to acclimatize itself with high altitude climbing, the party also climbed an already-climbed Dirgol Zom peak.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHITRAL: Fly or drive to Chitral.
Day 04: CHITRAL – SHOROM: by jeeps drive to Shogrom
Day 05: SHOGROM: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SHOGROM – SHERNIAK: trek to Sherniak.
Day 07: SHERNIAK – SHOGHOR BIASUN: trek to Shoghor Biasun.
Day 08 SHOGHOR BIASUN – BASE CAMP: trek to base camp.
Day 09-35: BASE CAMP: days reserved for climbing Tirichmir peak.
Day 36: BASE CAMP – SHOROM: trek back to shogrom.
Day 37: SHOGROM – CHITRAL: trek and jeep drive to Chitral.
Day 38: CHITRAL –ISLAMABAD: Drive back to Islamabad.
Day 39: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 40: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Rakaposhi Peak (7788m) Expedition

Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit in the Gilgit District of the Gilgit-Baltistan province of Pakistan. Rakaposhi means “Snow Covered” in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani (“Mother of Mist”). It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.[3] Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Gilgit or drive to Chilas
Day 04: CHILAS – JUGLOT: Drive to Juglot village.
Day 05: JUGLOT: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: JUGLOT – BASE CAMP: trek to base camp.
Day 07-41: Base Camp: days reserved for climbing Rakaposhi peak.
Day 42: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 43: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 44: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 45: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Muztagh Tower (7273m) Expedition

Muztagh Tower (also: Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: ice tower), is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh, part of the Karakoram range on the border of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uygur region of China. It stands between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.
The Mustagh Tower was made famous by a spectacular but somewhat misleading photograph taken by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. In 1941, the photograph was featured in a popular book on mountaineering with the caption “The Last Citadel”.

Nearly fifty years after Sella’s photo was taken, in 1956, his photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. Both teams found their routes less steep than Sella’s view had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge first on July 6, five days before the French team (fr: Guido Magnone, fr:Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east. The doctor François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.

ITINERARY

Day 01: Q ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – ASKOLI (2850m): By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs)
Day 07: ASKOLI – JULLA (3500m): Trek to Julla
Day 08 JULLA – PAIYU (3666m): Trek to Paiyu
Day 09: PAIYU – URDUKAS: Trek to Urdukas
Day 10: URDUKAS – BASE CAMP: Trek to base camp
Day 11-36: Base Camp: days reserved for climbing Muztaq Tower Peak.
Day 37: BASE CAMP – URDUKAS: Trek back to Urdukas
Day 38 URDUKAS – PAIYU: trek back to Paiyu
Day 39: PAIYU – JULLA: Trek back to Julla.
Day 40: JULLA – ASKOLE: trek back to Askole
Day 41: ASKOLE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu (6-7 hrs).
Day 42: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 43: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 44: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 45: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Trango Tower (6286m) Expedition

The Trango Towers are a group of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan, a district of the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan (formerly Northern Areas). They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakoram Range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6,286 m (20,608 ft). The east face of the Great Trango Tower features the world’s greatest nearly vertical drop.

All of the Trango Towers are on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. Great Trango itself is a large massif, with four identifiable summits: Main (6,286 m), south or Southwest (circa 6,250 m), East (6,231 m), and West (6,223 m). It is a complex combination of steep snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical to overhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system.

Just northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6,239 m), often called “Nameless Tower”. This is a very large, pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000 m out of the ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known as “Trango Monk.” To the north of this feature, the ridge becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive to climbers; however the summits do get higher. These summits are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group, though they share the Trango name. Trango II (6,327 m) lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge, Trango Ri (6,363 m), lies northwest of Trango II.
Just southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge) is the Trango Pulpit(6,050m), whose walls present similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself. Further to the south is Trango Castle (5,753 m), the last large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier.

Overall, the Trango Towers group has seen some of the most difficult and significant climbs ever accomplished, due to the combination of altitude, total height of the routes, and the steepness of the rock.[1] All of the routes are highly technical climbs. The east face of Great Trango was first climbed (to the East Summit) in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dæhli, who both died on the descent. The first successful climb of and return from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, via “The Grand Voyage”, a route parallel to that of the ill-fated Norwegians. These two climbs have been called “perhaps the hardest big-wall climbs in the world.”
The least difficult route on Great Trango is on the Northwest Face, and was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. This is nonetheless a very serious, technical climb. Trango (Nameless) Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the legendary British climber Joe Brown, along with Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. There are at least eight separate routes to the summit.

One notable route is Eternal Flame (named after a Bangles album), first climbed on 20 September 1989 by Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich. This route ascends the South-East Face of the Tower, and was climbed almost entirely free (in stages, using fixed ropes to return to a base each night). This helped inaugurate an era of pure rock-climbing techniques and aesthetics on high-altitude peaks.

ITINERARY

Mashabrum Peak (7821m) Expedition

Masherbrum (also known as K1) is located in the Gilgit Baltistan of Pakistan. At 7,821 metres (25,659 ft) it is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It was the first scaled and mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range, hence its name. The meaning of the name “Masherbrum” is not entirely clear. It may come from mashadar (muzzle-loading gun) plus brum (mountain), from the resemblance of the double summit to an old muzzle-loader. It may also come from masha (queen or lady), giving “queen of peaks.” Other meanings have also been suggested.

Masherbrum is the highest peak of the Masherbrum Mountains, a sub-range of the Karakoram Range. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8,000 meters (26,000 ft) peaks of the main range of the Karakoram which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. The Masherbrum Mountains lie to the south of the Baltoro Glacier and the main range of the Karakoram lies to the north of the Baltoro. The main range is the continental divide of southern Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea. Rivers to the north flow to the Yellow Sea.

The Baltoro Glacier is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro. Masherbrum also lies at the north end of the Hushe Valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak. In 1856, Thomas Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorams). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.

Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by Dr. William H. Workman and his wife Mrs. Fanny Bullock Workman. It was first attempted in 1938 from the south; the attempt failed just short of the summit.
After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, part of an American-Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch. They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties. The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.

ITINERARY

Spantik Peak (7027m) Expedition

Spantik or Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun sub-range of Karakorum. Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the “Golden Pillar”. It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting.

Spantik was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer’s German expedition. The most commonly climbed line follows the south East Ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906. The ridge rises 2700 meters over a lateral distance of 7.6 km, at angles which are mostly less than 30 degrees, with a few sections up to 40 degrees. It contains varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and screen. The mountain is very popular with organized commercial expeditions, due to its relative ease of ascent and scarcity of objective dangers. The short 3 day approach trek across straightforward terrain also provides for easy access and gradual acclimatization.

ITINERARY

Broad Peak (8047 M) Expedition

The local name of broad peak is Falchan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047m/26,401 ft. It is called broad peak because of its breadth at the top. It has also been called Enormous Tripe-Headed Breithorn (4,165m high tree-headed peak of European alps of the Baltoro. In 1954 Dr. Karl M. Heligkoffer of west Germany tried to climb it. His original objective, however, was to climbGasherbrum– I. He is stated to have failed in persuading porters to carry loads beyond Concordia above Baltoro glacier. Accordingly, made an attempt, from the south-western side, through the lower broad glacier. It however did not meet the success because of storm and very low temperature.

In 1957, Austrian expedition came to Pakistan to climb this peak. It was lead by Marcus Schmuck. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, a climber, Kurt Diemberger, an Austrian climber and photographer and legendary mountaineer, and Herman Bhul, who is consider one of the best known pstwar Austrian climbers. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5,791/19000ft. While climbing it made the best use of rope which were fixed by the 1954 German expedition. On 29th May, all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit. A storm forces them to return to the base camp. It was however, on 9th June, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Dieberger and Harman Bhul climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.

It was after this climbed that Schmuck and Wntersteller climbed an-un-named peak (7360m/24147ft. In ten hours they cross ten miles of the Godwin-Austin and Savoia glacier and climbed up a snow slope on a ski to camp about 1219m/4000ft. on the south-west face of summit. First on a hard snow and then in deep powder, they were back just in 52 hours after their departure. What an extraordinary feat of self-discipline, endurance and sheer determination. The un-named peak so climbed is probably the skill Brum Peak of Jerziwala Polish maps. The other two climbers, Diemorger and Bhul, headed towards Chogolisa peak where Bhul met his death by falling from the mountain.

The name of other peak in the broad range is broad middle/central. Some maps show its height as 8016m while the show it as 8000m It is stated to have been climbed in 1975. Anyhow it was in 1976 that a French expedition led by Yannick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style, along with main broad peak. This party of our followed the Austrian first-ascent route and made four attempts but could go only up to 7,925m/26,000ft. The expedition had come back because of bad weather.
A six number Spanish mountaineering expedition climbed broad central peak in 1987. Leader of the party was Josef Estruch. The third peak in the broad range broad peak north. Again some maps show its height as 7538m while the other shows it as 7550m. An Italian expedition lead by Renato Casarotto, attempted to climb it in 1982 but was unsuccessful. The party shows it height as 7600m/24,935ft. Casarotto, however succeeded in climbing it in 1983.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Q Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – ASKOLI (2850m): By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs)
Day 07: ASKOLI – JULLA (3500m): Trek to Julla
Day 08 JULLA – PAIYU (3666m): Trek to Paiyu
Day 09: PAIYU: Rest day at Piayu & celebration of thanksgiving, as you will be on glacier tomorrow.
Day 10: PAIYU – KHUBURSE (3700m): Trek to Khuburse.
Day 11: KHUBURSE – URDUKAS (3950m): Trek to Urdukas
Day 12: URDUKAS – GORO (4300m): Trek to Goro
Day 13: GORO – CONCORDIA (4650m): Trek to Concordia
Day 14: CONCORDIA –BroadPeak(5000m): Trek to broad peak base camp
Day 15-50: Base Camp: days reserved for climbing broad peak.
Day 51: Base camp – Concordia: Trek back to Concordia
Day 52: Concordia – Ali Camp: trek to Ali camp
Day 53: ALI CAMP –GONDOGOROPASS– KHUISPANG (4833m): Trek to Khuispang while climbing the Gondogoro Pass (5680m).
Day 54: HUISPANG – SAITCHO (3400m): Trek to Saitcho
Day 55: SAITCHO – HUSHE (2750m): Trek to Hushe
Day 56: HUSHE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu (6-7 hrs).
Day 57: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 58: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 59: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 60: FLY BACK Q: Embark your international flight.

K2 (8611m) Expedition

Pakistan has some of the richest mountain ranges, the Himalayas, the Hindukush and the Karakorum converging in the northern areas capped with some of the world’s tallest peak among them K-2, the world’s second highest at 8611m known to locals and ancient Tibetan as Chogori. It is the world’s biggest pyramid of rock, ice and snow with its great-serrated slops and the most elegant mountain standing alone, dominating the entire surroundings.

Discovered by Sir Godwin Austen in 1861 its ‘perfect cone’ astounded Colonel Francies young Husband in 1887 when he first saw it. William Martin Conway then arrived on the scene in 1892 in the great ice junction, which he named Concordia. But it was not until 1909 when the Duke of Abruzzi expedition reconnoitered K-2, that a good account of the mountain became available. The southeast ridge by which he made his aborted attempt is still known as the Abruzzi Ridge that has now become the normal expedition route on K-2.

The great south face, 3500m high offers the most familiar look by which photographers have helped to fix its image. The famous Abruzzi Ridge above the Godwin Austen Glacier goes directly to summit of the shoulder. The South-South West ridge often known as the “Magic Line” which is just behind the Angel Peak is a 2300m sheer climb from Negretto Saddle. Its north face was explored in 1937 by Eric Shiption.
After a number of failed attempts by mainly Americans and Italians it was in 1954 that an Italian expedition under the leadership of Professor Ardito Desio, got the summit. Two Italian member of this expedition namely Achille Compagnoni & Lino Lacedelli became the first to scle the summit from where they witnessed a “dream like world”.

The ascent of K-2 was a great event not only for Italy but the whole mountaineering world. Having been summated the mountain remained unclimbed for another spell of over 20 years. A few attempts were made between 1974 and 1976 but were not successful. 1977 was the year when new faces appeared on the Baltoro and the same year a large Japanese/Pakistani team put seven climbers on the top of K-2. Among them Ashraf Aman became the first Pakistani to have scaled K-2 on 9th August 1977, Nazir Sabir summitted K-2 via west ridge – a more technically challenging route – with Waseda University Alpine Club on August 7, 1981 Rajab Shah and Mehrab Shah reached the top of K-2 with a team from Holland in 1995.

Since the early years of the 20th century, over a 100 attempts have been made on K-2, out of which nearly one-third succeeded. The ascent of K-2 has claimed many lives. Climbers described it as the mountaineer’s mountains for the sheer skill that is required to negotiate its technical passage up the pyramid from almost any route.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – ASKOLI (2850m): By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs)
Day 07: ASKOLI – JULLA (3500m): Trek to Julla
Day 08 JULLA – PAIYU (3666m): Trek to Paiyu
Day 09: PAIYU: Rest day at Piayu & celebration of thanksgiving, as you will be on glacier tomorrow.
Day 10: PAIYU – KHUBURSE (3700m): Trek to Khuburse.
Day 11: KHUBURSE – URDUKAS (3950m): Trek to Urdukas
Day 12: URDUKAS – GORO (4300m): Trek to Goro
Day 13: GORO – CONCORDIA (4650m): Trek to Concordia.
Day 14: CONCORDIA – K2 BASE CAMP (5110m): Trek to k2 base camp
Day 15-60: BASE CAMP: days reserved for climbingK2peak.
Day 61: K2BASE CAMP – CONCORDIA: Trek back to Concordia
Day 62: CONCORDIA – ALI CAMP: trek to Ali camp
Day 63: ALI CAMP –GONDOGOROPASS– KHUISPANG (4833m): Trek to Khuispang while climbing the Gondogoro Pass (5680m).
Day 64: HUISPANG – SAITCHO (3400m): Trek to Saitcho
Day 65: SAITCHO – HUSHE (2750m): Trek to Hushe
Day 66: HUSHE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu (6-7 hrs).
Day 67: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 68: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 69: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 70: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Cathedral Peak Expedition

Cathedral Peak is a beautiful pyramid of snow and ice and one of the most accessible 6,000m peaks in the Karakoram. Located in the Hushe Valley of Baltistan, it lies on a ridge separating the Masherbrum and Aling Glaciers, just a few miles south of the towering bulk of 7,821mMasherbrum. This peak is first time climbed by an Italian party in 1988, British in 1991 and the Pakistan Army in 1996. There are unconfirmed reports of an Irish ascent from the Aling valley a few years ago.
The Hushe Valley has become famous in recent years for offering some of the most dramatic scenery and best climbing in the Karakoram Himalaya. Cathedral Peak Base Camp (BC) is a short trek from the road head, enabling us to minimize travel time and maximize climbing time in this 3-week expedition. Two camps will be used above BC. The climbing is varied and not without some difficulties with steep snow and ice slopes between camps 1 and 2, as well as a short steep summit section. Fixed ropes will be used as needed and High Altitude Porters (HAPs) will be employed to carry the bulk of your equipment.

ITINERARY

Day 01: Islamabad/Rawalpindi: Arrive in Islamabad,
Day 02: Islamabad/Rawalpindi: Briefing (welcome reception) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 03: Skardu or Islamabad– Chilas: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas,
Day 04: Skardu (2500m): Preparation (porter hiring & local purchasing)
Day 04: Skardu – Hushe (3100m): travel by jeep to Hushe.
Day 05: Hushe – Base camp (3900m): trek to base camp.
Day 06 Base camp: Rest day at base camp
Day 07-14: Climbing days reserved
Day 15: Base Camp – Hushe: Trek to Hushe.
Day 16: Hushe – Skardu: drive by jeeps to Skardu
Day 17: Skardu – Chilas: Drive to Chilas
Day 18: Chilas –Islamabad: drive to Islamabad
Day 19: Debreifing (fare well party) at alpine club ofPakistan.
Day 20: Fly back

Gashebrum 1 (8068m) Expedition

Gasherbrum means shining wall. This refers to 3050m/10,000 ft pale limestone walls of the great trapeze shaped Gasherbrum-IV peak. There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakorum Range. It was Captain Yunghusband and his party that in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier.
Subsequently in 1934, an international Himalayan Expedition of G. O. Dyhrenfurth, a German – American geologist-cum-climber and winner of the 1936 Olympic Gold Medal, visited the area and after doing some photographic work on the Baltoro Glacier, made an attempts on the south-east ridge of Gasherbrum-I peak, which is also called hidden peak (8068m/26,470ft). In 1935, Dr. P. C. Visser, a Dutch, and his party surveyed Gasherbrum Glacier. It was, however, in 1936 that are strong French expedition led by H. de Segogne tried its luck on Gasherbrum– I peak. The party went up to 6,797m/22,300ft where camp 5 was established. Subsequently the party located a place for camp 6 at 7010m (23000 feet). It was, however, due to continue storm and bad weather that the party was forced to abandon its plan. Two of the Sherpas, out of total of 35, unharmed when they fell down to 1800 feet after being hit by avalanche. The route adopted by the party passed through Srinagar–Zoji Pass– Dras –Kargil – Skardu – Shigar – Askole and Baltoro Glacier. It was, however, an American expedition of Nick Clinch which in 1958 climbed Gasherbrum– I peak. Schoening and Kaufman went to its top.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – ASKOLI (2850m): By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs)
Day 07: ASKOLI – JULLA (3500m): Trek to Julla
Day 08 JULLA – PAIYU (3666m): Trek to Paiyu
Day 09: PAIYU: Rest day at Piayu & celebration of thanksgiving, as you will be on glacier tomorrow.
Day 10: PAIYU – KHUBURSE (3700m): Trek to Khuburse.
Day 11: KHUBURSE – URDUKAS (3950m): Trek to Urdukas
Day 12: URDUKAS – GORO (4300m): Trek to Goro
Day 13: GORO – CONCORDIA (4650m): Trek to Concordia.
Day 14: CONCORDIA – SHARING: Trek to sharing
Day 15: SHARING – BASE CAMP: Trek to broad peak base camp
Day 16-44: BASE CAMP: days reserved for climbing Gasherbrum-I peak.
Day 45: BASE CAMP – SHARING: trek back to sharing
Day 46: SHARING – CONCORDIA: Trek back to Concordia
Day 47: CONCORDIA – ALI CAMP: trek to Ali camp
Day 48: ALI CAMP –GONDOGOROPASS– KHUISPANG (4833m): Trek to Khuispang while climbing the Gondogoro Pass (5680m).
Day 49: KHUISPANG – SAITCHO (3400m): Trek to Saitcho
Day 50: SAITCHO – HUSHE (2750m): Trek to Hushe
Day 51: HUSHE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu (6-7 hrs).
Day 52: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 53: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 54: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 55: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Gashebrum-2 (8035m) Expedition

In 1956, members of an Austrian Karakorum Expedition climbed Gasherbrum II peak (8035m/26,361ft). The party was led by Fritz Moravec. It is a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp-I, was set up at 6005m/19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, it lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/25000ft. In spite of receiving bivouac, the three reached the summit of Gasherbrum II on the 8th July and came back without meeting any further accident.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Skardu or drive to Chilas
Day 04: SKARDU OR CHILAS – SKARDU (2500m): Day free at Skardu or drive to Skardu
Day 05: SKARDU: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: SKARDU – ASKOLI (2850m): By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs)
Day 07: ASKOLI – JULLA (3500m): Trek to Julla
Day 08 JULLA – PAIYU (3666m): Trek to Paiyu
Day 09: PAIYU: Rest day at Piayu & celebration of thanksgiving, as you will be on glacier tomorrow.
Day 10: PAIYU – KHUBURSE (3700m): Trek to Khuburse.
Day 11: KHUBURSE – URDUKAS (3950m): Trek to Urdukas
Day 12: URDUKAS – GORO (4300m): Trek to Goro
Day 13: GORO – CONCORDIA (4650m): Trek to Concordia.
Day 14: CONCORDIA – SHARING: Trek to sharing
Day 15: SHARING – BASE CAMP: Trek to broad peak base camp
Day 16-44: BASE CAMP: days reserved for climbing Gasherbrum – II peak.
Day 45: BASE CAMP – SHARING: trek back to sharing
Day 46: SHARING – CONCORDIA: Trek back to Concordia
Day 47: CONCORDIA – ALI CAMP: trek to Ali camp
Day 48: ALI CAMP –GONDOGOROPASS– KHUISPANG (4833m): Trek to Khuispang while climbing the Gondogoro Pass (5680m).
Day 49: HUISPANG – SAITCHO (3400m): Trek to Saitcho
Day 50: SAITCHO – HUSHE (2750m): Trek to Hushe
Day 51: HUSHE – SKARDU: By jeeps drive to Skardu (6-7 hrs).
Day 52: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 53: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 54: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 55: FLY BACK : Embark your international flight.

Latok Peak (7145m) Expedition

The Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lays the Choktoi Glacier.

The group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation and first ascent date:
Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, climbed 1979
Latok II, west, 7,108 m, climbed 1977
Latok III, east, 6,949 m, climbed 1979
Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m, climbed 1980

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world. Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin’e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun’ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.

The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted, and almost successfully climbed, by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit. Many unsuccessful attempts have followed. Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group.) They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and E. Alimonta, T. Mase, and R. Valentini made the summit.

A notable recent ascent of Latok II came in 1997, when a very strong team composed of Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker climbed the sheer West Face of the peak. They described this aptly as putting “El Capitan on top of Denali”: a 1,000 m (3,280 ft) vertical rock wall with a base at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) elevation. The total vertical for the climb was 2,200 m (7,200 ft).

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit parties were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori. The second ascent, via the same route, came in 1988, by an Italian party. This was in fact the first repeat ascent of any peak in the group.

ITINERARY

Diran Peak Expedition

Diran is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. This 7,266 m (23,839 ft) pyramid shaped mountain lies to the east of Rakaposhi (7,788m).
Diran was first climbed in 1968 by three Austrians: Rainer Goeschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell. Earlier attempts by a German expedition in 1959 and an Australian expedition in 1964 were unsuccessful.

ITINERARY

Day 01: ISLAMABAD: Arrival at Islamabad.
Day 02: ISLAMABAD: Welcome reception or Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03: ISLAMABAD– CHLIAS: Fly to Gilgit or drive to Chilas
Day 04: CHILAS – JUGLOT: Drive to Minapin village.
Day 05: MINAPIN: Preparations (porters hiring & local purchasing).
Day 06: MINAPIN – BASE CAMP: trek to base camp.
Day 07-33: Base Camp: days reserved for climbing Diran Peak.
Day 34: SKARDU – CHILAS: Drive to Chilas
Day 35: CHILAS –ISLAMABAD: Drive to Islamabad.
Day 36: ISLAMABAD: Debriefing/Farewell at Ministry of Tourism.
Day 37: FLY BACK – Embark your international flight.

Laila Peak (6096m) Expedition

Laila Peak in Hushe Valley near Gondogoro glacier is in Karakoram range and is 6,096 m (20,000 ft) high. It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters. It has been climbed by Simon Yates, among others. According to the local people in Hushe, Laila peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have summated.

The height of the Laila peak in Hushe Valley is controversial. Some believe it to be 6200 meters whereas some mention it as 6614 meters. In a Japanese mountaineering map by Tsuneo Miyamori (published in 2003), the height of Laila Peak is mentioned as 6096 meters. In the summer of 2005, the first ever ski attempts on Laila Peak were made by Fredrik Ericsson and Jörgen Aamot from Scandinavian countries. Although they could not reach the summit, they skied down the North-West face of the peak. They described it as “one of the most amazing mountains they have ever seen, like a needle it points straight up in the sky”.

Frederik and Jörgen reached the base camp of Laila Peak (4150 m) on June 18, 2005, and they were at Camp1 (5000 m) on June 22. They made their first attempt to summit on Friday, June 24. They started climbing from 5000 meters at 2:30 am and after seven hours of climbing when they were only 100 meters from the summit, they realized that it was too icy to continue, and started skiing down on the North-West face of Laila Peak towards Gondogoro Glacier.